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804 Headlamp, Electric, complete with Bracket
Remark:
Headlamp
shells and Bezels can be reproduced in Holland since 2011. e-Mail me for
details. Ben Geutskens. By Ken Philp THIS DESCRIPTION IS BASED UPON LAMPS MADE BY KEN PHILP Description of lamps on Model A Ner-a-Car. This is to accompany the aluminium spun lamp shells and rims. Photos are copies from original factory photographs, and have been verified by examination of an original right side electric lamp and bracket. From examination of the photos it can be seen that the left hand gas lamp is identical in size and shape. The differences are that the electric lamp needs a tube at the back to take a bulb holder, whereas the gas lamp needs a gas jet fitted, and a vent fitted to the top. No internal reflectors were fitted.
Overhead view of lamps, showing electric lead to right lamp, and gas feed from acetylene generator to left lamp. The clamps on the mountings tubes can also be seen. The lamps have a brass plate riveted to the side to which a brass stem is attached. On the mudguard stay there is a hinged brass clamp casting, which clamps around the stay. On this hinged clamp there is a brass tube attached which incorporates a clamp at the outer, lamp, end. The lamp stem slides into the clamping tube. See the colour photos for more detail – these are of an original set-up.
Photo of original electric lamp. The shape of the brass plate, painted black here, can be seen. The basic size is 1.75” x 1.25” The brass stem is 7/16” dia and 1.25” long from the lamp shell. The stem groove reduces the dia. to ¼” at 11/16” from the end. The bulb holder tube is 1” o/d expanded into a hole formed through the shell rear, and a brass sleeve, bored to take an m.b.c.fitting, is fitted inside using a small brass screw as seen. The bulb holder is held in place by a further brass screw. On mine I used just an alloy piece – no brass insert – and made a lip to position the shell on it before expanding it. It may be worth adding superglue as well – mine needs it now as a minute amount of movement has developed. The rim is held on by a “PIP” at the bottom, and by a terminal nut (not shown) at the top. The rim has a hole to locate over the “PIP”, and a slot to slide over the screw. The “PIP” is a short length of brass rod soldered to a thin brass plate. The edge of the lamp is drilled to allow the “PIP” to pass through from the inside, and the plate is riveted in place. The screw for the terminal nut at the top is similarly constructed. I’ve used Pan head brass screws to take a plug terminal for the bottom. I also used Pan head screws for the top, and made old-fashioned plug terminals for the top. An under-sized hole keeps the screws in place (sort-of self-tapping.) View of inside. Note the alloy strengthening piece, which is riveted in place. In this lamp, three rivets had been replaced with screws and nuts. Compare with the photo above. The new rim is not identical to the original – the former was too complex for us, and would be difficult to spin. Therefore the glass has to be fitted as you see fit. Maybe the glass could be glued into place using high strength adhesive. I have used Perspex on my own bike, and used Superglue to fix them. So far it has been successful. I THINK that the glass from licence disc holders is the same size. This is an original left side mounting bracket. It is a brass casting. The hinged clamp fits around the mudguard stay, which is 1/2” dia. The overall length of the hinge is 1.75”, ¾” deep, and the clamp bolt is ¼” Whit x 1” long. The length of the mounting tube is 1”, (5/8” o/d ignoring the clamp bolt lugs), bored to take the 7/16” lamp stem. The clamp bolt, ¼” Whit x 1” long, locates with the lamp stem groove. NOTE THAT THE TWO SIDES ARE MIRROR IMAGES OF EACH OTHER! Note also the angles, as noted on one of the above factory drawings. The stem clamp bolt is vertical on both clamps, and realistically, in the absence of an original casting, this can only be fabricated once the clamp is in position on the mudguard stay.
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